Sweep Choc LP Build Guide
This page details the process in building the Sweep Choc LP Open Source Keyboard
Last updated
This page details the process in building the Sweep Choc LP Open Source Keyboard
Last updated
Get organized with all your tools you need and parts from your kit. Their are lots of tiny parts and you don't want to lose any during your build!
Be sure to check the Items You Need to Start Building... article for a list of required and recommended tools to make sure you have everything before you get started.
Place both halfs of your keyboard in front of you, we will start with soldering the bottom components. Keep in mind the direction of the boards as you solder.
Next lets install our Choc hotswap sockets. Here is what the Choc sockets look like:
These sockets fit in the outline, these are towards the bottom of each key. Those you will want to solder in a very similar way as you did the diodes. Again put solder on one pad, solder the component down, then solder the other side. Make sure both sides of the sockets are soldered well so you have good contacts. If you placed everything correctly thus far it should look like this for each key:
Note you will have a total of 34 Sockets
Lets grab the power switches. These are surface mount 7-pin and look like this:
On the Bottom of each half of the board you will see the pad to install the power switch if your board is wireless. As like the other components, put a little solder on one pad then place the swtich component and then solder the rest of the pads.
Flip your boards, we will install the top components next.
You will have one reset switch per board. They look like this:
Reset switches allow you to reset your keyboard in order to install new, or different firmware.
Install these where you see "Reset" located next to the TRRS jack. No wrong way to place it, but as you did the bottom components its easiest to solder one pad, then place it and solder the other pads.
TRRS Jack
You will have one TRRS jack per board. These look like a headphone jack.
TRRS Jacks are needed to connect both halves of your keyboard together for the wired layout.
If you have some tape such as painters, masking, or similar tape, you can use it to hold your components in place as you flip your boards over to solder the pins into place. Your two halves should now look something like this:
As with other components, start with soldering a single pin, this way you can make sure your headers are installed straight. Also remember the top most pins are supposed to be empty as these are for the optional wireless battery. Then if you have the optional battery for wireless, you will want to install the leads in the proper location. Red goes to Positive + and Black goes to the Negative -. Once installed you should have it looking something like this:
Next insert your pins and install your microcontroller. This can be face down or face up. Unless your board says otherwise, mount it face up. Make sure when installing you want to keep the top two pins empty. See below image examples:
This kit does not have a top plate. So we will need to install the bottom plate. This protects your components and main board. For this we simply install them with the included screws and brass standoffs. These are 6 headed torx so you will need a small torx screwdriver. Just hand tighten these. If you opted instead for the 3D printed case, then no standoffs are needed, simply screw it in.
Switches
Install your switches by pushing them into their sockets. Keep in mind its a tight fit so it will take a little pressure to push them in, but make sure they are fully seated and be careful not to bend any pins.
Keycaps simply insert into each switch.
Congratulations! You built your keyboard! Now lets get it connected so you can configure and start using it. Head over to our First Time Setup Guide in our Getting Started section to start using your new ergo split keyboard.
